Ensenada + El Valle de Guadalupe, BCS, Mexico

MexicoTravel Guide

Apr 6

Though the nearby wine valley is gaining in popularity, this little corner of Northern Baja deserves plenty of praise for the seafood lover and wine enthusiast’s paradise that it is. Some say it’s the birthplace of the Baja fish taco, others argue it’s where the first margarita was mixed, and I might say it’s where Mexico’s best oysters come from. Whatever your pleasure, it quickly becomes clear that Ensenada and the surrounding areas have plenty to offer the flavor-inclined. If you’re looking for an easy itinerary for a quick getaway, here’s what I recommend — A quick stop in El Sauzal for a beach-view beer and a snack at Pacific Brews, and to pick up some local produce at La Flor de Calabaza for your picnics (get to La Flor early in the day for a delicious breakfast). In the afternoon, head to the Mercado Negro in Ensenada to pick up your marine protein and have a meal at Muelle 3 on the docks (reservation recommended); Ensenada is not the dreamiest place to vacation and you’re better off getting your lounge on in the valley, but the fresh seafood in the city is not to be missed. Two days in the Valle de Guadalupe will give you enough time to do some wine tasting and eat at least two incredible meals at places like Troika at Vena Cava and Deckman’s en El Mogor. You’ll want to make reservations for top-notch meals and great wine tasting in the area.

Ensenada and El Sauzal are working, breathing, semi-industrial zones where people live their real lives. If you’re more interested in eating some of the best seafood of your life than you are in getting the perfect photo in your new hat in a colorful alleyway, then there are some stops in both towns you’ll want to make. The dirt roads of the valley carry you to dry rolling hills dappled with green vineyards and modern winery buildings that strive to look like anything but just like their neighbors. The valley area also boasts a truly remarkable wine and food scene. The majority of wineries serve food or have a restaurant on-site, and there’s a strong focus on bringing the bounty of the agricultural region and bountiful coast to the table. I’ve long wondered why wineries don’t get together with restaurants more often — it seems so obvious — and am delighted to see it done so well here.

I’d like to offer a little guidance on the Mercado Negro to help you navigate like a pro, even when you’re so hungry for that fish taco. There’s a line of open-air restaurants opposite the Mercado Negro in Ensenada with menu-waving staff beckoning you to step into their restaurant for a big meal and an even bigger margarita. But we don’t love a hard sell or the kitschy stuff, so we turned the corner to find white-tiled seafood counters backed by nothing more than a cook or two with a smile and a nod to encourage you to sit down. That’s the jam. I looked at the menu, even though I knew the only thing I wanted was that classic Baja fish taco on a handmade corn tortilla topped with cabbage, pico de gallo, and chipotle crema (which, if you like creamy sauces, seems to be made by some sort of magic but is actually pretty simple). Maybe it’s a ceviche tostada you’re after. That’s great. The menus are essentially the same for all the neighbors, but they’re expansive and fantastic. You can grab a margarita later, even at one of the two historic Ensenada bars that claim to the be the birthplace of the globally popular beverage, but for now, that taco (or tostada or other seafood delight of your choice) will be everything you need. I couldn’t help but want to go home with the doña, in her well-worn apron and shy smile. But then I remember that I always feel that way about auntie at the stove, cooking up the good stuff. All that to say, when you’re at the Mercado, keep it simple — follow your gut, trust the cook, maybe get a taco at every counter, up to you.

We stayed in El Sauzal during our time here, which turned out to be great. Save for a few surfers, we seemed to be the only out-of-towners around and we generally like to fall into step with the community around us. There isn’t any sort of central square or downtown area, but there are fewer people and less traffic than in Ensenada, so it makes for a nice place to post up for a few days (if you have a car). To the right are a few of the spots we came to love in El Sauzal, El Valle de Guadalupe and Ensenada. I suggest finding an airbnb in El Sauzal, since it’s in between Ensenada and the Valle. However you swing it, it’s cien por ciento worth a visit, especially if you have good wheels and even better companions.